Each Cook Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.